Beth Morton Jointers August 14th, 2018 - 09:16:37
A board on the top being the same size as a board on the bottom, etc. Many pieces of furniture have to maintain a symmetry - in other words what's on one side has to look the same on the other side or the piece does not look right. After cutting pieces of stock to slightly larger dimensions than are needed, a jointer may be used to make two or more boards square, true and the same size.
Assessing the quality of a used jointer follows the same four-step process of evaluating other used woodworking machinery. First, you should avoid amateur sellers of used woodworking machinery (e.g. eBay merchants and company auctions) and buy from professional sellers that are capable of accurately assessing a machine's value. Second, you should avoid purchasing a used jointer from a seller that has unresolved customer complaints at the Better Business Bureau (BBB).
Be sure to always keep the following safety guidelines in mind when working with a woodworking jointer: Always wear eye protection. Ear protection as well. Read the owners manual. Use a push stick when necessary and never use your hands to push a tiny piece through. Never joint a piece that is less than a foot long or less than ten inches wide. Always turn off and unplug the jointer before adjusting or servicing it. Always leave safety guards place unless it is necessary for that particular task, such as rabbeting.
In woodworking, a jointer-also referred to as a planer or a surface planer-is a machine that produces a flat surface along the length of a board, which allows boards to be joined edge to edge to produce wider boards. When used correctly, a jointer creates long boards whose smaller board sections are indistinguishable from the whole. Most jointers have two parallel tables-an infeed table and an outfeed table-which are separated by a cutting mechanism that contains two or more sharp knives arranged radially in a cylindrical cutter head, although more expensive jointers often contain a spirally or helically arranged cutting mechanism.
Sometimes, with curly or wavy grain structure, you will experience tear-out from the lumber edge even with sharp knives. Sometimes you can turn the board around and run it through again backwards with very shallow cuts until the edge is fully jointed and the tear-out is gone. At other times, you may have to settle for a sawn joint made on the table saw. Usually you can make fairly good glue joints this way, if you have to, but a jointed edge is always my first choice.